Colombia: Two Days in Magical Bogota
Now that we have finally (somewhat) recovered from the shock of not being in Colombia anymore, it’s time to share our experiences, tips on what to wear, what to eat, and where to go. In April 2019, the four of us spent two amazing nights in Bogota, followed by four warm nights in Cartagena.
Let’s begin with Bogota, though…(for Cartagena, please visit the Cartagena blog)
Where to stay
After hours, maybe days, of back and forth with the men, the women finally won on where to stay: Click Clack - a modern, edgy, boutique hotel near the Zona Rosa.What an amazing location! Less than 40 minutes from the airport, and walking distance to area restaurants and nightlife. The cab ride from the airport to the hotel was approximately $20 USD.
The exterior is artistic and unique with glazed protruding volumes that contrast the building’s metal mesh. The designers have thought through the design to the smallest detail. From the design of the furniture and the selection of the unique accessories, to the slogans and the placement of the room numbers. The rooms are labeled as XS, S, M, L and XL similar to clothing sizes.
Click Clack has a beautiful open-air roof top bar. Best place for live ‘80s music on a Thursday night! Guests from area hotels were actually visiting the roof top bar for the delicious drinks and beautiful 360 view of the city. I just wish they paid the same attention to the design of the rooftop bar, as they did throughout the actual boutique hotel. In the lower level of the hotel is another more laid back bar, which closes around 11pm every night.
Room tip:
Be sure to ask the front desk in which room you are being placed. We, unfortunately, ended up in an XS. Let’s just say, it’s not big enough for two adults! Too bad we missed that small detail while booking.
Daily Itinerary
Day 1
After checking in to the hotel around 4pm, we made our approximately 10-15 minute walk to Andres de Res. Their food menu was the most overwhelming thing about the restaurant. But the index can be helpful for those who don’t want to flip through all 70+ pages. I gave up at one point and asked the server to just recommend something. Worth trying – empanadas, arepas, ajiaco (Colombian soup which we will talk a bit more about later). Don’t forget to try the fruit – seriously, the fruit in Colombia is fresh and delicious! If you’re looking to try a cocktail, the lychee martini, pisco sour, and pina colada will leave you feeling refreshed, and craving more. Each is made with fresh ingredients! Why not, right?
There is plenty to do at night in the Zona Rosa area. From high end stores to restaurants, bars, and clubs. Depending on what you’re looking for, there is something for everyone.
After hearing much about Armando, we made our way there around 10pm. Note - the nightlife in Bogota, Colombia does not begin until after 10pm. The bar is very limited on cocktails. It seemed to be a dive bar, and had your basic liquor and beer. Don’t expect to get a fancy pisco sour or lychee martini. Because of the rave-ish, 18-year old crowd feel, we barely finished our one drink and left. Now, that may be your type of scene. But it was not ours. So, don’t scratch it off your list if you’re really wanting to check it out!
With all that walking, we worked up an appetite! Forget the fancy restaurants, head to Mona for an authentic late-night dinner. It’s a little mom and pop restaurant just a bit off the strip from the bigger restaurants and bars. Ah-mazing arepas, ajiaco, potatoes and sausage!
Day 2 - definitely a packed day compared to Day 1
Monserrate
We started our day with a healthy, filling breakfast at the Click Clack (included with the stay), and took a cab to Monserrate. Plan to get there as early as possible to avoid the lines. During the car ride up to Monserrate, I could feel the change of elevation. If you’re sensitive to elevation changes, take your time, breathe slowly, and allow your body to adjust. We arrived at 10am, with only a handful of people waiting to board the cable car before us. The view from above (over 10,000 feet) is breathtaking…an overview of the city of Bogota, with the backdrop of the Andes mountains on the east side. Tons of photo opportunities, so take your camera, selfie stick…whatever it is you use.
Make a wish in the wishing well, have an empanada or fresh fruit in the market, walk through the sculptures of via Cruces (a way of the cross), visit the church. There are restrooms about halfway up the mountain and cost $1000 pesos - cash only!
Walking up the mountain, we noticed a beautiful white house on the mountainside. That’s Casa Santa Clara - a restaurant/coffee shop nestled in picturesque gardens. We stopped here on the way back for coffee (with a shot of Baileys), sat outside on the patio overlooking Bogota, and enjoyed the view with fresh air.
The entire adventure can take two to three hours, depending on your pace. Don’t bother purchasing souvenirs from the tiendas at Monserrate. They are overpriced compared to La Candelaria. When we left around 1pm, the line to get on the cable car to come up the mountain was long! If you don’t like waiting in line, get there early!
La Candelaria
We were so glad we decided to walk down from the base of Monserrate towards the Candelaria area which took approximately 20 minutes. It truly gave us a chance to see more of the city, and mingle with the locals.
Candaleria was occupied by the wealthy between 1600s-1700s. Once the decline occurred, the rich migrated to the more affluent side in the 1930s. The divide is evident by the high rise buildings on the “new” side vs. the historic side which retained its historic Spanish colonial influenced architecture. The older homes were bought and renovated into what they are today – some are small restaurants, bars, tiendas, hostels.
It’s easy and fun to get lost in the colorful colonial streets that make up La Candelaria. Tons of painted facades, graffiti murals providing stunning backdrops for selfies...it is definitely one of the most photographed areas in Bogota. From bars, restaurants, to aboriginal street vendors, each street is unique in its own way.
We stumbled upon an eclectic bar (Fedura Caffe & Cocktails), where every wall was a piece of art. Many of the graffiti concerns Colombia’s history and expresses artists’ political and social views. Their cocktails were not our favorite, except for the Caperini. Bring a deck of cards, or board games, and stay a while!
La Puerta Falsa
From La Candelaria, we made our way to La Puerta Falsa. Must, must, must visit! Although there was a short wait (~10 minutes) to be seated, it is well worth it! While waiting for a seat, shop at the street vendors for souvenirs.
Museo Botero - free art museum
Housed in a beautiful colonial mansion with courtyards, 123 pieces of art work including sculptures by Artist Fernando Botero who is famous for his colorful voluptuous figures.
The museum also includes an area that displays contemporary Latin American and European artwork. Not only did the museum display Botero’s artwork, it showcases pieces owned in the personal collection of Botero from other artists (i.e. Picaso) and gifted to the museum. Replicas of Botero’s work can be purchased at street vendors throughout La Candelaria.
Luis Ángel Arango Public Library is close to Museo Botero. Although it is of a postmodern design, it complements the surrounding colonial buildings. We did not go inside the library, but admired the architecture from the exterior.
Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) Admission to the museum is about $2 USD
Featuring history of gold and pre-Colombian tribes with over 20,000 gold pieces showcased including Indigenous society jewelry (nose rings, earrings, etc). It is a walk through the evolution of gold, structured with a timeline of the gold evolution. Clearly showing the similarities and differences between the different tribes who wore the pieces, with a visual story of the reason/purpose of the pieces. The museum displays one of the world's largest collections of pre-Colombian gold artifacts and relics.
Tabula
Our final stop of the day for an early dinner. 6pm is definitely early for Colombians to indulge in dinner, so the restaurant was empty when we arrived. Their servings were huge. We ordered appetizers, expecting tapas style but instead were served portions big enough to be considered entrees. Either arrive hungry, or stick to apps only, or skip the app and order an entree.
What and where to eat
Andres de Res:
Arepas de Choco
Pina Colada
Lychee Martini
Pisco Sour
Empanada
Ajiaco
Mona: (does not serve alcohol)
Arepas
Potatoes and Sausage
Ajiaco
La Puerta Falsa: (does not serve alcohol)
Ajiaco
Tamales
Cheese dipped with hot chocolate
Fresh fruit juice
Arepas
Tabula:
Capirini and Lychee Martini (contains alcohol)
Cornbread (basic but delicious)
Chorizo and potatoes
What to wear
Layer, layer, layer! Wait, did I mention layers???
Bogota can be a bit chilly during in the early morning, warming up mid-day, and getting chilly again by night time. We must have experienced all four seasons in one day! So, definitely wear layers if you plan on being outdoors.
During the day - tons of walking, so be comfortable.
Men
Jeans or shorts
T-shirt or polo
Comfortable walking shoes
Backpack to carry water or souvenirs
Women
Jeans or shorts
Light colorful top
Comfortable walking shoes
Cross-body handbag or backpack to carry water or souvenirs
At night - dress up!
Men
Slacks or dark jeans
Bright colored shirts
Dress shoes
Women
Slacks, dark jeans, white jeans/pants, dresses, skirts
Bright colored shirts
Heels
Accessories
Tips (save these for when you’re there!)
Carry a cross-body handbag or backpack for day time
Camera and or selfie stick
Withdraw cash from the ATM of Davivienda (Bank) in La Candelaria area (best exchange rate and highest withdrawal limit)
Take playing cards or board games to sit around the bars/outdoor plazas
Credit card - call your credit card company ahead of time to find out the exchange rate. Before using credit card to pay at a venue, ask them for the exchange rate. If it is lower than what your bank is offering, charge it in pesos vs. USD, or just pay cash (pesos)
Do not get a rental car - taxi is much more convenient
Do not use Uber. They’re illegal! If you do end up using Uber, you will have to sit in the front seat with the driver and act as if you’re buddies if/when pulled over by a police officer.
Overall:
Hind: My favorite area in Bogota was definitely the vibrant, artistic & historic La Candelaria neighborhood! It was amazing getting lost in its narrow cobblestone streets exploring all the beautiful murals which concerns Colombia’s rich history from pre-colonial times to present time. In addition to that there’s all the Bohemian style small eclectic bars, restaurants & shops and of course the Museo Botero, which is a unique art museum housed in a beautiful colonial building.
Neha: My favorite were the views from Monserrate! The crisp air, culture, and history of the mountain were amazing and breathtaking. Walking through La Candelaria gave me a sense of being one with the locals and the history. Food, food, food - I’m a foodie! The empanadas were amazing, especially from the local mom-pop shops and street vendors.
