Colombia: Vibrant Cartagena & Rosario Island Hopping
Only couple of hours from Bogota, Cartagena is a breath of fresh ocean air! Once a Colonial Spain’s important ports, it is now a frequently visited city with lots of history, culture, food, night light, and good times to offer.
After a short drive from the airport, we finally get a glimpse of the 500 year old, massive stone fortresses that surrounds the historic old town, which is considered a Unesco World Heritage site. This fortification was built by Spaniards in the 16th century after Cartagena was raided numerous times by pirates.
Not far from the Walled City, a short 10 minute cab ride takes you to the newer, more modern and upscale part of Cartagena: Bocagrande, El Laquito & Castillogrande neighborhoods (further south). We took in the best view of these neighborhoods on the day we took a private boat tour to the Rosario islands. More on that later!
Where to Stay
For Cartagena, we decided to stay at a spacious two bedroom, two bath condo AirBnB on the beach. The condo at Palmetto Eliptic was as if we were at home with all of the amenities needed: double balcony to enjoy the ocean-view, kitchenette to store our alcohol and snacks, a living room to play cards and games. The common area had floor to ceiling windows, with a gorgeous view of the beach directly out back and the Walled City in the distance. Both bedrooms had A/C controlled in the room, closets, and TV. One full-bath is inside the master bedroom. The second bedroom has its own full-bathroom directly outside.
Honestly, the AirBnB was a wise choice for Cartagena vs. a small hotel room. Since it was a group of four of us traveling together, it allowed us to spend quality time as a group (and apart with our spouses).
Steps from Palmetto Eliptic is a pharmacy, Juan Valdez, and couple hair salons. The women went to salon Karla Gomez every night for a wash and blow dry. They were amazing! We didn’t pay more than $10-$15 each every night. No way can we find that amazing deal in the states! If you decide to go, please be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. They tend to be busy on the weekends, especially in the evening.
Several cabs were parked outside the building but their cost for travel is significantly more than a cab that you would wave down. Ignore them!
Room Tip:
Stock up on water, sodas, whatever is your choice of drink, and snacks. Food and drinks are not supplied by the host. No daily housekeeping! Either wash your towels daily, or contact housekeeping to bring more towels or toiletries that may be needed. They’re very prompt at responding. Laundry detergent or dish soap is not provided. Hit the grocery store around the block if you are in need of those supplies.
Itinerary
Day 1 (Arrival)
As soon as we stepped out from the airport, we were bombarded by numerous hustlers trying to haggle us for money. Some were selling goods, some just wanted money. Hold on to your handbags and wallets tight!
Since we arrived around 11am, the condo was not yet ready for check-in. Upon dropping off our suitcases at the Vacation Club office, we strolled around the blocks for a restaurant that could possibly be open for lunch. Lets just say, Cartagena does not eat lunch anytime before noon! One of the restaurants we stopped at was nice enough to serve us beer and water while they prepped to open for lunch. A cold beer on the humid, hot day was perfect!
After lunch, we made a short walk back to the Vacation Club office to collect our bags and head to the condo. Not far from the office, we were able to walk with the suitcases. (Thanks to our strong men!) A representative met us at the building to have us complete documentation (passport, forms, etc.) and give us a tour of the condo. After a quick twenty minute process, we were ready to discover the city!
First stop…Walled City
Yes, exactly as you are imagining it. This is a city within a city, enclosed within walls, disconnecting from the beach feel of Cartagena. Upon entering through its massive arched entryways, we were mesmerized with the colors and charm of the historic colonial buildings, plazas and landmarks. You can grab some fresh fruit, a hat and souvenirs from the local street vendors on almost every street within the Walled City. Beautiful fully-bloomed flowers of all types adorned many of the colorful two-three story colonial buildings and homes.
Cafe Del Mar
After a stroll through the city, we arrived at Cafe Del Mar to watch the sunset over the ocean. Located on the ancient wall overlooking the Caribbean Sea, sip on the best Pina Coladas while munching on plantain chips and guacamole. A DJ playing relaxing music set the mood just right for the sunset and a live band livened up the environment afterwards.
Tip - For the best view of the sunset, get there at least an hour before the sunset to grab seats closest to the wall facing the ocean.
La Vitrola
After the beautiful sunset, we took a 10 minute taxi ride to Palmetto Eliptic, giving us enough time to get ready and return to the old town for a lovely dinner and drinks at the Cuban restaurant La Vitrola which also hosted a live Cuban band to entertain the diners. La Vitrola had an old Havana rustic feel with the white walls, thick wooden beams, whirring ceiling fans and window shutters.
Cafe Havana
After dodging a few free-style rappers when we stepped outside from dinner, we caught a quick taxi to our next night spot - Cafe Havana, one of the hottest salsa dance clubs in the hip Bohemian Getsemani neighborhood, south of the historic wall. On a busy corner with a long line of locals and tourists on the sidewalk awaiting to enter the white Colonial building with images filling the walls with famous musicians around the facade, the interior has a large rectangular bar.
Talented live salsa band, dancing, (bad drinks), over crowded in front of the band and dancers- you are bound to be wiped with a few sweaty arms or legs. However, this famous spot is a must-visit!
After Club Havana, we visited another salsa club nearby but it was nearly empty and didn’t have the same lively vibe as Cafe Havana.
Day 2 (Beach day) - Playa Blanca
After a filling, healthy breakfast and coffee at Ely Cafe, we were off to Playa Blanca via cab. The 45 minute cab ride took us through neighborhoods with beautiful old and new mansions, which were clearly very expensive and worth the sight of admiration.
To get to the beach from the parking lot, we walked through a rough patch of stones and sand. But once past that area, the open ocean greeted us and brought magical smiles to our faces! The beach has bars spread out, and little restaurants cooking fresh seafood for purchase. Chairs and umbrellas can also be rented for a small cost. Be sure to take cash!
The water was warm enough to spend hours sitting or swimming in the water, with a cold cocktail. Waves were gentle enough for slight rocking. If you’re into water sports, plenty of activities for those interested. Jet ski, boating, parasailing, etc. can all be purchased right there at the Playa Blanca.
Tip:
At Playa Blanca, go to the far right of the beach. It is less crowded, better view of the ocean, and less hagglers trying to sell goods and services. Drinks can be quite expensive. Ask for pricing before ordering. We ended up paying almost $20 per pina colada, which was the most we had paid at any other bar or restaurant in Colombia.
After a relaxing day at Playa Blanca, we took the cab back to Cartagena for a late lunch at Boca Grande, a Mediterranean restaurant in Boca-grande. The tapas were delicious! I had my first experience with Ceviche at Boca Grande! Let me tell you, I am hooked!!! The architecture and design of Boca Grande was quite interesting. We sat in an enclosed outdoor area, partially encased with a metal screen that’s clad with greenery. A feeling of sitting outdoors but away from the hustle and heat.
El Burlador Gastrobar
After much needed pampering at the salon, we headed to dinner at El Burlador Gastrobar, a Spanish restaurant with a live Flamenco show. Make reservations, and do not be late! We were two minutes late because the location is hard to find, and they gave our table to a walk-in. Luckily, after a short 15-20 minute wait, we were able to be seated. As far as the Flamenco show goes, five minute breaks lasted 15-20 minutes, but the show was nevertheless amazing. Food was exceptional. From charcuterie, to paellas, everything was delicious. The service was on-point! We were one of the last few to leave the restaurant. It was rather late, close to midnight and the show was still going.
Alquímico Bar
Followed by dinner at El Burlador, we walked to Alquímico Bar, a beautiful colonial building that was previously an upscale shoe store now houses one of the hippest bars in the walled city. You walk into a dimly lit space with massively high ceilings and columns, textured & distressed walls, huge mirrors, patterned floor tiles and of course, a fabulous square bar in the middle of the space open to the second level. Hind loved the walls (she is, after all, our architecture addict!) that had shelves lit with bottles filled with colorful liquids- Interesting way of lighting up a wall. It has a Great Gatsby-ish feel to it, with lavish red curtains, two extravagant staircases on either side of the back wall that lead you up to second level overlooking the bar on the main level. This level is smaller and has another bar and a pool table. There was also a rooftop bar but it was fully booked. The wait for the rooftop bar can be hour(s) long. If you wish to hang out there, be prepared to stand around. If you want to seated, make a reservation (if one is available) or arrive early to place your name on the waiting list. The cocktail menu was a hit, especially with its innovative drinks and names which were used to describe each drink after different cities around Colombia.
Day 3
For a traditional Colombian breakfast, we dined at Cafe de la Manana in El Centro. Cafe de la Manana is run by a friendly German and Colombian couple, who also rent out two of the rooms above the restaurant to guests. The walls are decorated with local photographers capturing the essence of Colombia. Mimosas are freshly mixed at the table if you order a pitcher. Coffee is pure Colombian, one of the best in town.
To burn off the calories from breakfast, we checked out cute boutiques around the Walled City, some were high quality local artisans and designers selling baskets, hats, accessories, clothing and bags. In addition to boutiques, we explored upscale hotels housed in beautiful colonial mansions or Monasteries.
San Augustine, for one, was a former nunnery. We walked through large wooden doors into this beautifully preserved boutique hotel to explore the design. This hotel gives off a peaceful vibe and full of character, surrounding visitors and guests with white walls and wooden ceilings, balconies and framework. One architectural detail that instantly caught our attention was in the courtyard, where an L-shaped pool, surrounded by palm trees is situated beneath the remnants of a historic aqueduct. The architect did a wonderful job integrating the ancient aqueduct into the design. One of the original walls of the former architecture remained as part of the new hotel, as part of the L-shaped pool.
There is a different kind of beauty in all the large wooden doors of these old colonial mansions and the creative designs of the metal door knockers. The views take the observer to the good ol’ days. As we continued our walk around Getsemani, we quickly realized that it is not as touristy as the historic center but has more of a Bohemian flair. It is inhabited primarily by locals, with few hostels sprinkled around; but slowly getting reinvented.
Before heading to the Castillo De San Felipe de Barajas, we made a quick pit-stop at Maria Pelenque Restaurante for refreshing mojitos. It’s a small local restaurant with vibrant colors, and workers dressed in the Caribbean/Colombian traditional clothing. The back of the restaurant was full with diners so we made ourselves comfortable near the bar towards the front. After spending couple of hours there, and few mojitos later, we made the short walk to San Felipe.
Castillo De San Felipe was not as crowded as we thought it would be considering it was late in the afternoon. However, that just made it easier to walk around and enjoy the views of the city and the history of the landmark. Many photo ops for the those who love selfies or using professional cameras!
We had definitely worked up an appetite for some Ceviche at La Cevicheria in the old town. A short cab ride back from San Felipe, La Cevicheria was packed with diners! The wait for outdoor seating was too long, so we used that as an escape from the evening heat and got comfortable inside. Amazing ceviche! Limited alcohol options.
After the late lunch, we walked around to explore one of Cartagena’s most upscale and historic hotels, the Sofitel Santa Clara off of Plaza San Diego. It was originally built as a convent in 1621. In 1995, it was transformed into a luxury hotel. We walked in from its side entrance which is the entrance into its popular bar El Coro Lounge & Bar, leading into a breathtaking lush courtyard. All the walls surrounding the courtyard were of the terra-cotta/burnt orange color. From the courtyard, we took a quick peek into their main restaurant, Restaurant 1621 (which is said to be the nuns’ dinning room)- designed with thick timber beams on the ceiling and a beautiful crystal and several iron chandeliers that hang down from the ceiling over a horse-shoe shaped bar which sits in the middle of the room. The gem of this restaurant is the wine cellar in which wine and cheese tastings are held. The beautifully designed entrance into the wine cellar blends old with the new beautifully. An original thick stone wall is surrounded with a scripted glass facade adding some transparency into the wine cellar.
We didn’t have an opportunity to walk around the other floors or to visit the rooms and pool, but we definitely got a sense of the style and the charm of the space. We then walked through the courtyard towards the main entrance where scattered around were vintage furnishings and antiquities on the walls. From there, back into a busy Plaza San Diego we went!
We ended the long day of walking with dinner at Mochi located inside of Ananda Hotel and connected to Carmen restaurant and bar. It’s a hidden restaurant with reservations hard to come by. With a Japanese fusion menu, and lychee martinis to rave about, the experience and food was one of the best so far!
Day 4 Rosario Islands
Finally, the day to take a private boat out into the open ocean and visit the Rosario Islands had arrived. It was the perfect activity for our last full day in Cartagena, Colombia. We booked our private boat through Keith at Cartagena Boat Charters. He met us at the marina in the morning to introduce us to the guide and captain. Keith even had water and fruits loaded for us in the cooler. We had also brought with us a cooler full of wine, liquor, and snacks for the ride.
From the boat booking process to the time we docked back eight hours later, the entire experience was breathtaking. As we sailed, the captain and guide took the time to explain the history of the many different islands, and landmarks - often stopping in the middle of the ocean to allow us to take pictures and admire the island homes, views, and Pablo Escobar’s abandoned iconic home. The guide and captain knew exactly which island to take us to based on what we were looking to experience. The entire day was amazing - thanks to Keith, our Captain, and the Tour Guide!
We visited four islands out of the 20+ islands. Our favorite was definitely the first one with clear water, and tranquility. Some of the islands charge a fee to dock and visit, so we avoided those but sailed by to view if it was worth it. In Cartagena, we saw several tour guides selling a day pass to one of the islands, Ibiza. When we sailed past the island, it was nothing to write home about. Not worth the money! With cabanas taking up most of the beach, it looked over-crowded and dirty.
Tip: Carry cash to purchase lunch and drinks at the islands. Tips for the tour Captain and Guide are not included in the booking and are appreciated.
To end the amazing day, we had dinner at Cuzco, a Peruvian restaurant back in the Walled City. With a live band performance, it’s best to sit in the courtyard so you can take in the views and beats of the band. Before heading back to finally end the night and an amazing several days in Cartagena, we stopped at El Baruarte for a quick delicious, last drink and view of the gorgeous historic city.
Quick overview of Cartagena
Torre de Reloj (clock tower)- once of the main gateways in the city- where we first entered on day 1
Multiple historic plazas, some with open cafes, music artists, vendors and tons of pigeons you can feed!
Plazas:
Visit the squares: (Old Town) El Centro
Plaza San Pedro Claver- church
San Diego area- prettiest colonial homes, Sofitel hotel (former convent)
Plaza de Bolívar: used for military parades before 1610, Catedral Santa Catalina 1577
Plaza Santo Domingo: intimate & lively especially at night, Botero sculpture. One of the most vibrant plazas
Carriages rides throughout the Walled City
Local vendors selling local crafts -hats, woven colorful bags, accessories, souvenirs, cigars, fresh fruit, coconut water, etc
Restaurants:
La Vitrola : 1950s-era Havana, with live Cuban music (Hard to reserve)
Cafe de la Manana
Cafe Epoca (we didn’t have an opportunity to visit but heard amazing things about this restaurant. Hopefully, you will be able to work it into your itinerary)
Mochi -Asian fusion, located inside Carmen restaurant
La Cevicheria (Anthony B recommendation) great lunch spot
Cafe San Alberto: small little coffee shop with a cute design known as Colombia’s most ‘award-winning coffee brand.’ We had a chance to grab a quick coffee where they were super meticulous in the way they prepare and serve it to you. They also had a selection of pastries. (Near Santa Domingo Plaza)
Cuzco (Peruvian)- beautiful setting with indoor and outdoor (courtyard) seating and a live Cuban band
El Burlador Gastrobar (Spanish & flamenco show)
Paletas from Paletteria (artesanal popsicles)
Coco club social (French/Colombian) interior- French country-open only for private events- We had a chance to walk in and check out the decor as it is no longer open for regular dining and only holds private events/parties.
Bars:
Alquímico
El baron (plaza San Pedro)- Small bar that also has seating outdoors in the plaza
Baruco by Cuzco (Peruvian/Spanish bar)- beautiful outdoor bar near Cusco restaurant
El Baruarte- on the wall..we had a late night drink there before heading back to our AirBnB
Carmen Bar - enclosed with glass wall and sliding doors- best drinks and bartenders. Must try the Lychee Martini
Mochi - inside Carmen - amazing Sushi.
Cafe Del Mar
Cafe Havana in Getsemani
What to Wear
Daytime:
Summer dresses
Shorts
comfortable walking shoes
hat (don’t let yours fall in the alleyway waters!!)
sunglasses
Polos or t-shirts
tank tops
cross-body handbag or a light weight tote to stuff souvenirs
Nighttime:
Dress up!!! Cartagena is a city of fashion, BUT keep it simple as there is tons of walking.
Comfortable heels or flats but trendy is the key
Women, get your hair done at a salon. A wash and blowdry is approximately $10-12 USD at some places. Definitely worth it after a long day in the heat or the beach.
Overall:
Hind: Old Cartagena is a mesmerizing historic coastal city I will definitely come back to visit! The architecture was rich & vibrant - loved the massive doors and animated brass door knockers. I was on a mission to explore as many old colonial homes turned hotels as my group allowed me to ;) …plenty more to discover! All the restaurants & bars that we tried were fabulous- from the amazing food & drinks to the music and of course their interior design! Last but not least was our full day of Rosario Island hopping… an unforgettable day!! Cartagena… you truly are magical…
Neha: Cartagena was magically rejuvenating. Complete opposite in weather, culture, history, food, and people. I could get used to the beach life there. The fresh, clean ocean air awakened the soul in a way that describing with just words would not do it justice. One must visit there and experience the magic in-person. Leaving Cartagena was bitter-sweet; knowing I had walked the steps of some major historic, beautiful paths felt like an amazing accomplishment but leaving the heaven on earth was tough.
